How to filter tap water?

[Guppy]

How serious do you guys get with filtering your tap water before you add it to the aquarium. I have a RO/DI filter for my saltwater, but I think that is probably overkill for a freshwater tank. My wife is going to be doing a partial water change on her 160 gallon freshwater FO tank and I was thinking of just running the tap water thru an ice maker filter (sediment and activated charcoal filter). Do you think this would be adequate? In the past we have always filled up a 5 gallon jug and just let it set (uncapped) overnight. This time we are going to be adding more than 5 gallons.

[rolloffhill]

No filter necessary, just have to make sure you use dechlorinater. Prime & amquel come to mind. Pythons make for easy cleaning and filling without having to tote a bucket back and forth from the sink...;)

[AndrewH]

Not knowing were you live, just leaving the water setting over night might not do a whole lot for ya (other than get the temp about right).

Most water companies don't use chlorine any more and have switched to chloramine. Chloramine is 2 chlorine and 1 ammoina which is more stable in water and will not come out of solution if simply left exposed to air like chlorine will.

Prime & AmQuel plus will treat both chlorine and chloramine.

That all being said, PUR water filters claim to filter out 99% of chlorine and I know several people that use them for their freshwater water changes without any problems.

I personally use a double ice maker filter and then add AmQuel plus without any problems.

I also have the makings for a python system if you're in need of one.

[lellison]

No filter necessary, just have to make sure you use dechlorinater. Prime & amquel come to mind. Pythons make for easy cleaning and filling without having to tote a bucket back and forth from the sink...;)

I think that was a stab at me Skipp. :rolleyes1:...lol

[rolloffhill]

Never!!!:hehe:

[xtc]

we're seeing an unusual high amount of ammonia in our tap water (Richardson)- Canh has suggested using RO water until the ammonia lowers. I've been checking the water before adding it and doing more/smaller water changes to try and reduce the ammonia effect.

[kewlkatdady]

I see ammo readings almost always from my water...
I can do a 50% WC and within 2-3 hours, my tank readings are back to 0.0% The effects of VERY small amounts of ammo for a short period of time is none...

I wouldn't worry about it. I use Prime and I add it to the water as I'm re-filling the tank with my python.

[fatfutures]

That's all I'm doing Chris... The ammonia's been high in our Richardson water for MONTHS now. But, I've seen zero ill effects on my fishies. Just keeping up with my regular Mon and Thur 50% water changes and adding prime to the tank as I add water with the Python. My ammonia readings stay at 0.

[biggin]

I am using RO on my planted tanks.... as a suggestion from Canh and a couple other people to help with my hair algae problem. So far it is getting better.

[Jim2982]

We supposedly have high ammonia levels here in Denton, too. It was suggested to me using double or even triple doses of Prime, which is what I've been doing for about a year now and I haven't had any more problems.

[AndrewH]

I'm liking kewlkatdady's idea more and more.

Have a refrugium (a terrestrial plant house) under the tank to flow the water through to help reduce the nitrogen.

[ElijahTurtle]

Typically I don't worry about the ammonia from the chloramines in the tap water. I just let it get used up by the plants & bioculture in the tank.


I am using RO on my planted tanks.... as a suggestion from Canh and a couple other people to help with my hair algae problem. So far it is getting better.
Hey do you have an off cycle during the day for your lights. If not, you might want to consider it. It takes most alga about four hours to begin photosynthesis, If you run your lights for four hours then have a 1-2 hour "siesta" off cycle, it will allow the higher order plants to out compete the algae's for nutrients, since they begin photosynthesis immediately.
I eradicated BGA & hair algae in my tank this way. I learned this from an article about people doing outdor planted tanks in SA that use the siesta period to keep algaae out of thier tanks by covering them.

[biggin]

No, I do not do it but I will try. Maybe it will help.

Typically I don't worry about the ammonia from the chloramines in the tap water. I just let it get used up by the plants & bioculture in the tank.


Hey do you have an off cycle during the day for your lights. If not, you might want to consider it. It takes most alga about four hours to begin photosynthesis, If you run your lights for four hours then have a 1-2 hour "siesta" off cycle, it will allow the higher order plants to out compete the algae's for nutrients, since they begin photosynthesis immediately.
I eradicated BGA & hair algae in my tank this way. I learned this from an article about people doing outdor planted tanks in SA that use the siesta period to keep algaae out of thier tanks by covering them.

[AndrewH]

Yeah, when I hade a bloom I did what ET described. On 3.5 hours, off 2 hours, on 4 hours.

Worked great, but did take a while (I think 3-4 weeks, as a total black out will take 3-4 days).

[biggin]

Well, I can not do a total blackout, do not want to kill the plants I have....

[AndrewH]

:exactly: total blackout will kill (or at least hurt) all the plants, so the 4/2/4 method works well for planted tanks.

[biggin]

Yeah, that is what I am going to try.

[flamenco-t]

You can also put an airstone on tap water for 24-48 hours and it'll remove all the chloramine and chlorine. Just make sure you get a food grade container so you don't build too much slime in the container while airing it out.

I used the brute trash cans.

stan

[AndrewH]

Everything I've read said chloramine will not come out easily with aeration (or just letting it set out), like chlorine will, which is why the water companies are using it. You have to use dechlor to remove it, which you're still left with ammonia (chloramine = chlorine + ammonia. the dechlor will neutralize the chlorine and leave the ammonia)

Good read (http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/chlor.htm)

Another good read. (http://www.h2o-science.com/auctions/chloramines.htm)

[biggin]

x2 that is what I have always heard and read.

Everything I've read said chloramine will not come out easily with aeration (or just letting it set out), like chlorine will, which is why the water companies are using it. You have to use dechlor to remove it, which you're still left with ammonia (chloramine = chlorine + ammonia. the dechlor will neutralize the chlorine and leave the ammonia)

Good read (http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/chlor.htm)

Another good read. (http://www.h2o-science.com/auctions/chloramines.htm)

[AndrewH]

You can also put an airstone on tap water for 24-48 hours and it'll remove all the chloramine and chlorine. Just make sure you get a food grade container so you don't build too much slime in the container while airing it out.

I used the brute trash cans.

stan

Stan,

I'm not trying to be "confrontational" or discount what you're claiming, I'm just wondering if you have any pre and post test results to show the chloramine is coming out with aeration (the first link does say it's possible, but takes a long time)?

[kewlkatdady]

why do yall actually worry about chloramines so much?

Ok so its chlorine and ammo... the use of Prime removes chloramine or at least unlocks the two (ammo and chlorine).
Once the are unlocked the chlorine is ousted by the prime and the ammo is processed within an hour or so by the bio culture.

I have done 50% or bigger WC and before the WC ammo was 0 as it should be... after the water change there may be traces of ammo .25-.50 ppm of ammo, but within and hour or two its gone and back to 0 ppm's.

There is just not enough there to even kinda concern me.

[AndrewH]

The idea is to not have to use Prime (or Amquel+, etc.). Trying to filter out the chlor' so to just change out the water without adding any dechlor.

[kewlkatdady]

sounds like ALOT of work to accommplish something that is accomplished by 2 capfuls...

I'm lazy though

[AndrewH]

Well if you solve the chlor' problem, you can do automatic water changes (which = most lazy of all :D, j/k).

[bra8ndy8]

I think the same way Kewl!!! Seems ridiculous!

[kewlkatdady]

I couldn't do auto water changes...or at least it wouldn't.

You can't set up a auto gravel vac and I gravel vac with every water change.

Do you all not do gravel vacs?

[biggin]

Very rarely on the planted tanks.

Probably not as much as I should in my other tanks.

(already regretting this one) The bare bottoms I do.

I couldn't do auto water changes...or at least it wouldn't.

You can't set up a auto gravel vac and I gravel vac with every water change.

Do you all not do gravel vacs?

[AndrewH]

I couldn't do auto water changes...or at least it wouldn't.

You can't set up a auto gravel vac and I gravel vac with every water change.

Do you all not do gravel vacs?

Hmmm, UGJ?

I do gravel vac, but if you have a heavily planted tank it's not necessary (or possible).

[AndrewH]

(already regretting this one) The bare bottoms I do.

:rofl:

[kewlkatdady]

I can understand not GV'ing a planted tank...

but ALL other tanks should be GV'd imho

[DiscusD]

I change about 250 Gallons every day on my Discus. All I do to the water is run it through 2 carbon blocks into one large tank in my garage and heat and run an airstone in the tank over night. This way the water doesnt change any params.
I have done this for a number of years now without any problems.

[AndrewH]

What are the test results before and after?

I didn't think about heating the water! What temp do you get the water?

[kewlkatdady]

with Discus, probably high...around 83-86 would be my guess.

[AndrewH]

Well here's my thought...

The higher you get the water temp the further apart the molecules are and the easier the chlor' would come out with aeration.

Heat that barrel to 100*F, aerate the crap outta it, then let it cool back to 84-86 for the next water change (in his case at least).