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AndrewH
08-25-2007, 07:48 PM
Please feel free to copy or use my ideas (some of which I borrowed from other sources) from any of my DIY projects.


I currently only have one picture of the skeleton of my stand, but I hope to have others real soon.
My plan is to temporarily move the fish, gravel, plants, etc. into the 55 gallon while I'm setting up the 90 with the substrate I plan to use, get the filtration in place and seeded, and all the minor adjustments before I start the aquascape.
90 gallon stand skeleton. Pretty simple, pressure treated 2x4. 30" tall, 19" wide, and 49" long. $20 for wood and screws.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/FrameWork.jpg
More pictures to come as I continue building.

AndrewH
08-25-2007, 08:16 PM
Well of course I forgot to take the camera with me last time I went out and worked on the stand. I might be out there tomorrow (July 4) during the day or this weekend and hopefully I'll bring my camera.
I ended up getting some free red oak cabinet doors, so I had to modify the stand to accomodate them. The framing looks a little funny, but it'll all be covered up once it's said and done. Normally, I would have made the doors to fit the stand instead of the other way around.
I took some time yesterday and today to draw up everything and determine the cuts I have left. I hope the real thing turns out as nice as my drawings ;).
(if you'd like to see these files "more clearly" send me your e-mail address and I'll send you a PDF of them)

AndrewH
08-25-2007, 08:17 PM
Here's a picture of the canopy frame I got done tonight. I found enough scrap wood from our remodel to completely build it, so that further reduces the costs (I think my estimate is around $130-150 for complete stand and canopy). I'm keeping a running total which I'll post after it's all done.
I should be able to finish it up tomorrow (after my drill charges back up ;) ).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/CanopyFrame2.jpg

AndrewH
08-25-2007, 08:18 PM
I found my corded drill (yeah, I had to dust it off).
Here's the main frame work of the canopy. My light will sit on top with plexi-glass directly under it (between it and the tank). The outside finish (birch plywood and pine trim) will hang 2" below the bottom of the canopy to cover up the plastic trim on the tank.

EDIT: note = the long 1x4s on the ends are a design flaw and aren't necessary.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/CanopyFrame3.jpg

AndrewH
08-25-2007, 08:19 PM
Well, of course I left the camera sitting right by the door yesterday when I went to work on my stand.
All the sheathing is installed and some of the trim.
I should be back out there next Friday (pending some new fish pickups :D ) so hopefully I'll have some finished pictures next week and be able to start the stain/finish.
Totals so far...
Screws/Nails = ~$15
2x4 framing = $15
Pine Plywood (for the tank to sit on, etc.) = $10
Birch Plywood (for finished sheathing) = $20
Trim = $80
Canopy Framing Lumber (1x2, 1x4) = $10
Stain = ~$20
Grand Total of about $170 plus a crap load of time ;), but it was/is worth it.

AndrewH
08-25-2007, 08:20 PM
Almost done...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7120009.jpg
^
Here's were I left off last time. Internal framing done (first picture in this thread), exterior birch plywood cut & installed, and doors installed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7120010.jpg
^
Same as picture 1 but with doors closed :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7120011.jpg
^
Added the base trim which I found out in my shed (= free ;) ), and added the top trim which will hide the tank's plastic trim. I ended up buying "top choice" pine which is a better cut of pine, taken from the center of the tree instead of the outer parts which means no knot holes and better color. At a little over twice the price, $4 instead of $2, I'm really happy with it and glad I went with it. I wanted something a little more decorative than a simple 1x4, so I used a router, first time I might add which shows on some pieces, and added a nice detail around the board. Pretty simple and cheaper than buying a pre-detailed board (which a pre detailed 1x4 runs about $25 each).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7120012.jpg
^
Same as last picture, just different angle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7120013.jpg
^
Added the vertical corner trim. It looks really white in the pictures (because it's pine), so I'm hoping it'll give a nice contras when it's stained.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7120014.jpg
^
Same as last, just different angle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7120015.jpg
^
Same as last, just different angle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7120016.jpg
^
Same as last, just different angle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7130018.jpg
^
Here's the canopy. I forgot to take pictures of the "door" as I was building it and I change the design from the drawing above (this will come into play further down ;) )
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7130019.jpg
^
Added plywood and the bottom trim (this trim will hide the top plastic trim on the tank. Matches what I did on the stand {same router detail}).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7130020.jpg
^
Added more plywood different angle than above.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7130021.jpg
^
Same as above, but with door open.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7130022.jpg
^
Added top trim. I originally bought some crown moulding, but after cutting the board 6 times it was still too short and at the wrong angle. Crown is more difficult to cut and make it look right than I remember from the last time I messed with it. When I changed the design of the door, I ended up making it stick out further which in turn made it so that I now didn't have enough (including all my mess up cuts), so I used some of the free trim I had brought with me and it actually tied the very top in with the very bottom quiet nicely. I think it turned out nice.
Also added the vertical corner trim.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7130023.jpg
^
Same as above, different angle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7130024.jpg
^
Same as above, but showing the canopy door open.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P7130025.jpg
^
Another angle with the door open.

Next on the list is to purchase some Red Oak boards (which is what the doors are). I'll put the same router detail on them as was used for the trim. 1x4 will go between the doors to fill in some of that void space. And the rest will be used to simulate doors on the canopy like on the stand with a piece in between like the stand.
I also need to build the shelf inside, but I already have the plywood. Just need to cut it down and install it.
Then 2-3 coats of stain and 1-2 coats of varnish.

AndrewH
08-25-2007, 08:25 PM
As you may have guessed, these posts (at least their contents) were from a while back.

The only thing I have left to do is refinish the doors (didn't work out so well the first time, so I sanded them down).

I hope to have eveything in place and back up and running by the end of Sep or Oct.

AndrewH
08-31-2007, 09:08 AM
Latest update.

I have the stand back at my house now. I've started sanding down the doors so they can be refinished. Hopefully by this weekend they'll done and installed.

Then comes the wire up (I'm installing receptacles and switches under the stand to make it easier to plug-in and control the equipment) and install the under stand lights. Oh and I still need to put in the plywood bottom (seen leaning up against the wall behind the stand).


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/halfP8300077.jpg

bra8ndy8
08-31-2007, 09:25 AM
WOW it's finally ALMOST done!! I know a project takes 10 times longer with 2 young kids then it did before!! LOL But it looks beautiful! You did a good job! WTG!

poel_19
08-31-2007, 09:50 AM
Dude...that's friggin' sweet!!!

kewlkatdady
08-31-2007, 09:54 AM
Andrewh...
The stand looks great...but I'm a bit concerned that the the majority of the weight is on the screws....instead of the wood...

Do you think this could be a problem? Does the plywood take alot of the weight off the screws?

Thoughts?

Please feel free to copy or use my ideas (some of which I borrowed from other sources) from any of my DIY projects.


I currently only have one picture of the skeleton of my stand, but I hope to have others real soon.
My plan is to temporarily move the fish, gravel, plants, etc. into the 55 gallon while I'm setting up the 90 with the substrate I plan to use, get the filtration in place and seeded, and all the minor adjustments before I start the aquascape.
90 gallon stand skeleton. Pretty simple, pressure treated 2x4. 30" tall, 19" wide, and 49" long. $20 for wood and screws.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/FrameWork.jpg
More pictures to come as I continue building.

AndrewH
08-31-2007, 10:18 AM
WOW it's finally ALMOST done!! I know a project takes 10 times longer with 2 young kids then it did before!! LOL But it looks beautiful! You did a good job! WTG!

Yeah, no doubt. Plus my wife had surgery, so I was staying around the house to take care of her.

Dude...that's friggin' sweet!!!

:) thanks.


Andrewh...
The stand looks great...but I'm a bit concerned that the the majority of the weight is on the screws....instead of the wood...

Do you think this could be a problem? Does the plywood take alot of the weight off the screws?

Thoughts?

To specifically answer your questions... all the weight on the screws would be a problem. Yes, the plywood would help distribute the weight throughout the entire structural skeleton.

The screws will be holding 0% of the weight. If you look closely, there are six vertical 2x4's which will be holding the tank's weight. For sideways stability, they're connected together with the top and bottom 2x4 frames and 1/2" plywood on top and bottom. It’s very hard to see, but the 6 vertical 2x4s stick up above the hort frame about 1/16”-1/8” so they’re the first thing that contacts the 1/2” plywood.

All of the weight will be supported on the vertical 2x4s and none on the horizontal 2x4s (those are actually covered up with plywood). The screws and 1/2" plywood are only there to hold the 6 vert 2x4s in place (almost impossible to compress a 2x4 long ways)

The exterior plywood (the part you can see) is actually just a 1/8" thick veneer and doesn't support any weight. There is blocking behind it for the doors supports.

AndrewH
08-31-2007, 10:25 AM
(regarding kewlkatdaddy)...

Oh, and I added some extra vertical 2x4s while constructing which isn't shown in any of these pictures. I'll try to get some pics of this after I wire up the inside.

biggin
08-31-2007, 10:39 AM
I wish I would have taken more pictures when I built my stand. My .02, I think the stand would be fine with a plywood top (as it was finished with)? The load will not be as much on the outer 2x4s but on the vertical 2x4s.

AndrewH
08-31-2007, 10:57 AM
Actually, the outter plywood is 1/8" birch and the top and bottom are 1/2" pine.

kewlkatdady
08-31-2007, 05:19 PM
Good design...I couldn't tell that the ver. 2x4's came up above the hor. 2x4...


In that case it looks great...and not over built like mine is...GAWD its heavy...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i134/kewlkatdady/58%20stand%20and%20canopy/DSC01799.jpg

and this is only for a 58....

rolloffhill
08-31-2007, 08:27 PM
Andrewh...
The stand looks great...but I'm a bit concerned that the the majority of the weight is on the screws....instead of the wood...

Do you think this could be a problem? Does the plywood take alot of the weight off the screws?

Thoughts?

Man I looked at some stands before I made mine, and you would be amazed that some of them don't have any 2x4's at all!!:wha: Everything on the plywood

(regarding kewlkatdaddy)...

Oh, and I added some extra vertical 2x4s while constructing which isn't shown in any of these pictures. I'll try to get some pics of this after I wire up the inside.

Looks GREAT!! :hehe: I did the same thing, looked at it and said, may as well, I have the wood


Good design...I couldn't tell that the ver. 2x4's came up above the hor. 2x4...


In that case it looks great...and not over built like mine is...GAWD its heavy...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i134/kewlkatdady/58%20stand%20and%20canopy/DSC01799.jpg

and this is only for a 58....


Good job, I had 3-4 2x4's in each corner too, also had center braces.

ElijahTurtle
08-31-2007, 09:25 PM
Nice..I like that Honey Oak finish. Well that's as close as I can describe it. I need to get off my butt & put a door on my Betta Condo & actually build a top for it, so I can sell it.

Skipp don't worry about the overkill...It can't be nearly as bad as my overbuild on the stand for that a piss-ant 20Long. If a tonado ever hits the house were in, it'll be the only thing left standing!
:confuzeld: What can I say, when you have enough wood for it, you might as well use it.

AndrewH
09-01-2007, 12:09 PM
Yeah, 2x4 = $2-$3

20, 58, or 90 gallons of water on your floor because the stand didn't hold = $500-$1000+ clean up

Wife's expression when walking into the room to see the contents of your fish tank on the floor = Priceless.

Life takes overkill and overkill takes Visa! Everything everywhere it's supposed to be (and not on your floor).

AndrewH
09-01-2007, 12:16 PM
Nice..I like that Honey Oak finish. Well that's as close as I can describe it. I need to get off my butt & put a door on my Betta Condo & actually build a top for it, so I can sell it.

Skipp don't worry about the overkill...It can't be nearly as bad as my overbuild on the stand for that a piss-ant 20Long. If a tonado ever hits the house were in, it'll be the only thing left standing!
:confuzeld: What can I say, when you have enough wood for it, you might as well use it.
Actually, it's Pecan by Midwax. I really like the color, but it's the stain and urethane all in one and it SUCKS! The urethane dries too quick and doesn't allow you to fix any mistakes or wipe it off if there's too much in one location. I'd definitely recommend the separate stain and urethane.

Yeah I was wondering if you ever got that canopy build or sold it. You still gonna get a larger tank to replace it?

Man I looked at some stands before I made mine, and you would be amazed that some of them don't have any 2x4's at all!!:wha: Everything on the plywood.
Yeah, if you look at the stands for a 90 gallon tank at the LFS they're all plywood and 1x4s (for like $150). I couldn't freaking believe it. The lady that was showing them to me was trying really hard to sell me one, but I was definitely not interested when I discovered how they were constructed.

AndrewH
09-01-2007, 12:59 PM
Here we go, doors are done and back on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P9010079.jpg

bra8ndy8
09-02-2007, 10:14 PM
Looks good....NO DUH...lol not no dough!!

poel_19
09-02-2007, 10:22 PM
that stand is sexual....chocolate!! LOL

AndrewH
09-04-2007, 09:53 AM
Ok, I got all of the wiring done. Just need to stop by the store tonight to get some new batteries for that darn battery hog of a camera we have ;).

Updates soon to come...

bra8ndy8
09-04-2007, 10:55 AM
be waiting!!! Thanks for the pictures!!!

AndrewH
09-04-2007, 08:07 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P9040083.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P9040082.jpg

Here we go... it's still not 100% finished (I broke one of the plates during the process). If I ever do it again, I'll make a mounting board and use conduit, so the wires aren't exposed (just to clean it up a bit). Tested everything and it works like a charm.

There's only one plug that goes to the wall outlet, then everything else is under the stand. The top quadplex receptacle is on the top switch, the middle switch controls the first receptacle of the lower quadplex and the lower switch controls the other.

In the middle the one switch controls the receptacle right beside it and the other side is the same as the first side.

Figured this configuration would give me lots of control and allow lots of controlling options.

Oh, and I'll clean it up the next time I get a chance to work on it.

AndrewH
09-04-2007, 08:16 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/P9040077.jpg

Overall shot

bra8ndy8
09-05-2007, 08:02 AM
LOL I have 4 outlets in my 300 gallon!! Talk about OVER doing it!! I love the Christmas lights!

rolloffhill
09-05-2007, 08:31 AM
Looks good, that is another thing I never got around to. I have all the stuff, just never installed it.....:baghead:

AndrewH
09-05-2007, 08:49 AM
Yeah it was a pain in the butt to get 'em configured like I have them.

I'll definitely do things different next time.

To give you some kinna idea... I bought 25' of wire and used all but 6" of it in a 49"x19"x30" stand ;).

biggin
09-05-2007, 08:52 AM
I was really close to doing that... then I noticed I had a tub of extra power strips and decided to be lazy....

AndrewH
09-05-2007, 09:31 AM
Power Strips are definitely an easier way to go, and I did consider using them.

But came to the conclusion that I'd like to have the on/off convenience to control the equipment. That way I don't have to plug and unplug, or turn off the entire strip. Plus I can also change out a switch to a dimmer and dim my lights as necessary (other equipment might be necessary BTW).

AndrewH
09-05-2007, 09:35 AM
I love the Christmas lights!

Actually, these lights have been around and used in architectural applications for a long time. I've only recently started seeing them used as Christmas Lights, and actually you can purchase the white ones (like I have) all year long in the lighting department at Lowes. $12.95 for 12' and they work perfect for under the stand because you can add more at any time by simply addind another strip without having to add an additional cord ;).

xtc
09-05-2007, 09:43 AM
I buy 18" T-5 fixtures for $9.00 at HD/Lowes.

I have a bunch of those light hoses and they fail too easily for my taste.

AndrewH
09-05-2007, 10:04 AM
Yeah, that's definitely one of their drawbacks, you can't change out the lights as they burn out.

But I like how easy you can reconfigure them, or unclip them if you temporarily need light in a different spot.

Give and take, give and take.

biggin
09-05-2007, 10:44 AM
Yes, dimmer would be cool.... When I get around to putting doors on my stands I will have to do something about the lighting in the stand. Receptacles will most likely be going in then. Bad thing is I have 3 circuits of receptacles already wired, faced and everything just need to screwed in.... my dad made them for a desk I have. Did not want to do the power strip thing. 4 computers and crap plugged in takes too many power strips. Since we moved into the house I have not setup my computers. So I have 3 desktops sitting out in the garage... I think we are down to 1 junk computer…. Another project, another day.

Maybe the room that was going to be the office should be a fish room.... It would get more use.

xtc
09-05-2007, 12:46 PM
NO!! My way is better than yours- change or I'll chage your mind for you. :hehe:

AndrewH
09-05-2007, 01:18 PM
I'm :batman:

Uncle Bubba
09-06-2007, 06:39 PM
For what it's worth, I would recommend Lag bolts instead of screws on the stands holdin that much weight. If you have kids leanin on the tanks or try moving the stand with some weight still in it the screws will flex and pull lose. Lag bolts have the pan head that will pull in flush with the wood and with a washer and nuts on the back will support any amount of movement. The wood will splinter before the bolts loosen up.

Just as an idea also when I built my stand with a canopy I put the electric outlets in the top. Just in case something leaked or I got sloppy cleanin the tank no water will get to them up there.

ElijahTurtle
09-06-2007, 06:48 PM
I'm :batman:
Well then I'm :spiderman:

AndrewH
09-06-2007, 10:23 PM
For what it's worth, I would recommend Lag bolts instead of screws on the stands holdin that much weight. If you have kids leanin on the tanks or try moving the stand with some weight still in it the screws will flex and pull lose. Lag bolts have the pan head that will pull in flush with the wood and with a washer and nuts on the back will support any amount of movement. The wood will splinter before the bolts loosen up.

Just as an idea also when I built my stand with a canopy I put the electric outlets in the top. Just in case something leaked or I got sloppy cleanin the tank no water will get to them up there.

Yeah, I didn't think about lag bolts until after I was almost finished. I did use them on the first stand I build (the one that the above is replacing) and wish I would have on this one.

This is the stand to be replaced
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/Current90gallon_07-03-07.jpg

Actually, since all of my electrical is going into one existing wall outlet, I'll simply change out that one to an GFCI receptacle. I thought about having one in the canopy, but having all of them up there would bug me as I'd some how see all the cords (or at least I'd know they're there).

You have any pictures? I'd love to see (and steal your ideas :)) your setup.

AndrewH
09-06-2007, 10:27 PM
Well then I'm :spiderman:

LOL, we should go on tour together.

AndrewH
09-11-2007, 04:05 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/90galstandelectrical.jpg

Here's a quick drawing to show the electrical contorls... enjoy.

AndrewH
04-14-2008, 08:00 PM
Here's the final piece on the DIY... the lighting splash guard/diffuser.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/04-14-08%2090%20pics/IMG_0792.jpg

Blakearooskey
04-14-2008, 09:58 PM
Looking good Andrew, Looking good.

AndrewH
04-14-2008, 10:01 PM
tyvm

tsunderl
04-14-2008, 10:06 PM
Andrew is the king of DIY. http://www.pushupstairs.com/images/emoticon/extra3/king.gif

AndrewH
04-14-2008, 10:13 PM
Well I have some good ideas once in a while and can halfa$$ them together if I have enough glue on hand (notice the large crack in the middle of the "splash protector"? Yeah, freakin' knee on the breakable pieces as I'm cutting - genius I know).

tsunderl
04-14-2008, 10:23 PM
Well I have some good ideas once in a while and can halfa$$ them together if I have enough glue on hand (notice the large crack in the middle of the "splash protector"? Yeah, freakin' knee on the breakable pieces as I'm cutting - genius I know).

Actually, I hadn't noticed, but now that you mention it... http://www.pushupstairs.com/images/emoticon/neptune/Animated/Stupid/stupid038.gif

AndrewH
04-14-2008, 10:26 PM
:baghead:

tethorpe3
07-11-2008, 06:23 PM
On your canopy???? Are those all 2x4 peices or did you use some 1x3" for sides? Im in need of build a canopy for a 75 gallon... But im no carpentor......

bra8ndy8
07-14-2008, 10:34 PM
On your canopy???? Are those all 2x4 peices or did you use some 1x3" for sides? Im in need of build a canopy for a 75 gallon... But im no carpentor......


Or a speller!! LOL sorry.....I had to!!!

AndrewH
07-15-2008, 06:57 AM
(reference: Posts 3,4, and 6 have pictures of the canopy)

The canopy is designed out of 1x2s and 1x4s to be light weight, which hindsight being 20/20 the 1x4s weren't needed and are actually a design flaw (they make the canopy stick out away from the tank the exact width of the 1x4s).

I should have simply attached the exterior sheathing of the canopy to the 1x2 frame.

So in the picture below, the 1x4s on the ends were not needed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/CanopyFrame3.jpg

AndrewH
07-15-2008, 08:49 AM
Maybe this will help.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/Canopy-1.png

mrsadler
09-10-2008, 01:01 PM
:exactly:Dude...that's friggin' sweet!!!

screenames101
09-11-2008, 11:10 AM
its looking great!!! nice work, I would have been lazy and used strips instead of wiring everything myself

AndrewH
09-15-2008, 10:29 AM
:exactly:

TYVM

its looking great!!! nice work, I would have been lazy and used strips instead of wiring everything myself

Yeah, what I did was way overkill and way more complicated than it needed to be. I'm about to simplify it and will post new pictures.

AndrewH
10-19-2008, 10:10 PM
New plug/switching layout.

Enjoy ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/04-14-08%2090%20pics/attachment.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/04-14-08%2090%20pics/1attachment.jpg

tsunderl
10-19-2008, 10:20 PM
Andrew, you are amazing with the stuff you think of. Wish my brain worked half as good as yours. :)

So, do the switches control the lights or do they control the plugs below them? The plugs don't look like they are GFC. Is there another safety measure? And how's this all wired in? And are you available for rent??? lol

AndrewH
10-19-2008, 10:41 PM
Andrew, you are amazing with the stuff you think of. Wish my brain worked half as good as yours. :)

So, do the switches control the lights or do they control the plugs below them? The plugs don't look like they are GFC. Is there another safety measure? And how's this all wired in? And are you available for rent??? lol

TYVM for the kind words.

Quite simple really :D, the switch controls the plug directly below it. You plug in your equipment (say an XP3 ;)) to one of the outlets and turn off the switch when it's time to clean the filter, etc. (or to the heater if it has to be off for a water change ;)) otherwise the switch is on 24/7. Or you can plug in your timer then plug your lights into the timer and leave the switch on 24/7 letting the timer control the lights on/off. Could easily add an outlet which doesn't have a switch for 24/7 power for a timer, etc.

Behind the board (which I'll post up pics once I get a chance) there's simply a junction box (http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/junction_box.jpg) where all of the wires come together to a common 6' three prong cord. The 6' three prong cord simply goes to the nearest wall outlet which is changed out to be a GFCI (http://www.electricianpdq.com/ElectricalProblems/GFIC1.jpg) receptacle/outlet. That will protect all of the outlets under the stand and since the GFIC receptacles are $15 each, using standard receptacles under the stand - $0.25 each - saves quite a bit of money. Looking at $55-$60 for something like this and adding extra receptacles only adds $1 per outlet & switch, or $0.50 for just an outlet. Your main expenses are the GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt, sometimes you'll see it as GFI) @ $15 and the 6' three prong cord for $15 & $15 for the wire.

In my layout I left room to add extra receptacles between the current ones if needed. Also having the board under the stand gives a good place to remote mount some ballasts since you need a dry spot for 'em.

I'm for hire ;). I'll give you the same quote I have XTC for his lighting I installed, $0 (zero), if you buy everything which I don't already have :D.

supersmirky
10-20-2008, 07:46 AM
Wow Andrew....simply amazing. I'd pay money for that! Plus gas money since you live so far!:D

AndrewH
10-20-2008, 09:29 AM
Wow Andrew....simply amazing. I'd pay money for that! Plus gas money since you live so far!:D

TY sir!

PM coming ;)

tsunderl
10-20-2008, 09:46 AM
Wow Andrew....simply amazing. I'd pay money for that! Plus gas money since you live so far!:D

Me too!

masroberts9
10-20-2008, 09:55 AM
looks great. love the color. great pics and diagrams.

AndrewH
10-20-2008, 10:31 AM
Me too!

PM coming :D

looks great. love the color. great pics and diagrams.

Thank you very much.

rolloffhill
10-20-2008, 04:46 PM
Looks good, planned on doing something similar when I built my stand. Have had all the parts under the stand now for 1.5 years.....:rolleyes:

supersmirky
11-09-2008, 01:45 PM
Hey Andrew...since you are taking a leave of absence from fish, could you by chance post a pic of the "behind the scenes" junction box so i can try to duplicate something like what you have??

Mr.Malawi
02-04-2009, 01:51 AM
i love the finish.

AndrewH
02-04-2009, 08:11 AM
TY

http://www.dfwfishbox.com/forums/production/album.php?albumid=128&pictureid=2065

paul
11-03-2009, 07:31 AM
nice wood work and wiring set up you got there.. :D

AndrewH
11-03-2009, 09:45 AM
Thank you very much.

I'm in the planning stages for 4 more tanks (2 @ 90gal & 2 @ 300gal) & 2 large ponds w/ fountain, so keep en eye out for their DIY threads ;). Should be closer to the first of the year before you see anything about the tanks and spring/summer before anything on the ponds.

TangTango
11-03-2009, 10:57 AM
That looks really nice.
Ya did a great job.

http://i701.photobucket.com/albums/ww14/TangTango/Gifs/Frontosa_02.png

BODYDUB
12-28-2009, 02:15 PM
There's some nice home made stands in this thread..........

AndrewH
12-28-2009, 04:22 PM
That looks really nice.
Ya did a great job.





There's some nice home made stands in this thread..........

Thank you very much.

Deco
12-28-2009, 04:29 PM
Excellent Job Andrew. By the way, I saw your pics of your 33 gallon. Where did you get that?

AndrewH
12-28-2009, 04:55 PM
Excellent Job Andrew. By the way, I saw your pics of your 33 gallon. Where did you get that?

TYVM

Here you go :D

http://www.dfwfishbox.com/forums/production/showthread.php?t=1256

robert1
12-14-2011, 10:44 PM
awesome DIY.... worth bumping to the top just for the value of the wiring design ...

AndrewH
12-15-2011, 04:20 PM
Thank you kind sir!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/wiredback.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/wiredfront.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/NewWiring_1.jpg
^ note: the colors referenced within my sketch are simply the colors I used to print the sketch, NOT the wire colors.
Typical Residential Wiring (120V/240Delta):
HOT = Black
Neutral = White
Ground = Green or bare copper

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/newwiring-back.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/newwiring-closeup1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/newwiring-closeup2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/newwiring-front.jpg

AndrewH
12-15-2011, 04:28 PM
I think I'm going to make one modification for the next wire up ;).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/07-12-07%20stand%20pics/90galstandelectrical.jpg

http://static.zoovy.com/img/kyledesign/W432-H432-Bffffff-V1/light_switchplates/oiled_bronze_switch_plates_black_devices.jpg

The middle switch/receptacle (blue in the sketch) is what I'll be going with next time. Saves wire and is a cleaner installation. It's a double gang backbox with a switch in one side and one receptacle on the other under a common faceplate. ;) These will still be mounted to a backboard like the previous post with a J-box behind to collect all the wires.

Or some of these :)
http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/72/7290_300.jpg

robert1
12-15-2011, 08:22 PM
I wonder if it would be ok to do a 3-gang with dual electrical outlet, and one a switch....

I like your junction box idea. will be doing something similar on the 240 stand.... talked to my brother the other day (electrician) he said we can run a dedicated circuit for the 240 wall plug with GFCI, and on the opposite wall do another same way for the reef tank....

FishDaddy
12-16-2011, 07:05 AM
i made one with four switches, each controlling a pair of plugs.

AndrewH
12-16-2011, 07:35 AM
I wonder if it would be ok to do a 3-gang with dual electrical outlet, and one a switch....

I like your junction box idea. will be doing something similar on the 240 stand.... talked to my brother the other day (electrician) he said we can run a dedicated circuit for the 240 wall plug with GFCI, and on the opposite wall do another same way for the reef tank....

Yeah, 1 switch can control however many plugs you want.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/MULTIPLUGSONESWITCH.jpg

20 amps for each tank should be plenty!

biggin
12-16-2011, 09:25 AM
Just a FYI, I have found that hanging the plugs from the top of the stand is a much better solution if you have a sump.

It does not allow water to gather on the wires and corrode out.