View Full Version : DIY CO2 Diffuser
AndrewH
01-08-2008, 09:36 AM
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/38006-co2-reactor.html
I based my design off of the pictures in the above link.
Parts list:
1 ea. - 2" sch 40 PVC pipe x 12"
1 ea. - 2" sch 40 Wye
1 ea. - 2" sch 40 Coupler
3 ea. - 2" to 1/2" reducing caps (2" to barb size)
2 ea. - 1/2" thread 90* bend 1/2" barbs
1 ea. - 1/2" thread to straight 1/8" barb
The dimensions on the image below are my best guess before I assemble the parts. I'll update them once it's all put together.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/CO2/DIYCO2Diffuser.png
biggin
01-08-2008, 10:00 AM
putting bio balls in it?
AndrewH
01-08-2008, 10:11 AM
I don't see the need for bioballs. Being 18" - 24" long there should be enough water movement to disolve the CO2 without anything else in there.
Kathy
01-09-2008, 01:05 PM
I have a real high tech DIY diffuser.
I snipped off the end of a chopstick, stuck it in the CO2 return air hose line and have it resting in the intake of a power head.
poel_19
01-14-2008, 11:36 PM
IMO the bio balls would break up the bubbles and make the CO2 easier to dissolve......
biggin
01-14-2008, 11:45 PM
x2
IMO the bio balls would break up the bubbles and make the CO2 easier to dissolve......
AndrewH
01-16-2008, 12:20 PM
Well with the flow length (24") it should have plenty of resistence to break down the bubbles and since it's sealed the CO2 has no were else to go but into the water.
If you add bioballs, you have to be able to open the unit for cleaning.
biggin
01-16-2008, 01:33 PM
Ever look at your filter hoses? This unit will need some cleaning once in a while....
Well with the flow length (24") it should have plenty of resistence to break down the bubbles and since it's sealed the CO2 has no were else to go but into the water.
If you add bioballs, you have to be able to open the unit for cleaning.
AndrewH
01-16-2008, 02:32 PM
My inlet hose is cruddy, but my return hose is clean as a whistle ;) and since the diffuser doesn't get any light it should be ok (my inlet hose does receive light).
The diffuser goes on the inlet hose.
I guess time will tell, but it's simple enough to put a threaded cap so you can add bioballs and still have access for cleaning.
rolloffhill
01-22-2008, 07:25 PM
Are you putting this inline in your xp3 return line?
AndrewH
01-23-2008, 09:31 AM
Yes, that is the plan.
I'll have one on the XP1 and one on the XP3. Some have suggested an extra pump after the canister if you notice your flow lacking when it gets to the tank while having equipment inline (reactor, heater, pH monitor, temp monitor/control, etc., etc.).
And actually, I have all of the parts I needed to finish this now so I should be able to finish it up tonight (I've been looking for hose barbs).
Just note... the XP filters have 5/8" I.D. tubing and a 1/2" barb will NOT work (ask me how I know :p: ). Lowes (at least the one by my house) doesn't carry the plastic hose barbs in 5/8", so I have to use brass. I did find the plastic ones on the net, but with shipping the brass ones were cheaper.
biggin
01-23-2008, 09:33 AM
Home Depot has them.... That is where I have got the 5/8 stuff I needed.
Yes, that is the plan.
I'll have one on the XP1 and one on the XP3.
And actually, I have all of the parts I needed to finish this now so I should be able to finish it up tonight (I've been looking for hose barbs).
Just note... the XP filters have 5/8" I.D. tubing and a 1/2" barb will NOT work (ask me how I know :P:). Lowes (at least the one by my house) doesn't carry the plastic hose barbs in 5/8", so I have to use brass. I did find the plastic ones on the net, but with shipping the brass ones were cheaper.
AndrewH
01-23-2008, 09:45 AM
S.O.B. - F.L.
rolloffhill
01-23-2008, 06:00 PM
The brass should be ok, they won't corrode quick enough for it to matter..
AndrewH
01-24-2008, 08:54 AM
Well, I can't find the CO2 barb in plastic either (which I don't think I'd trust plastic with CO2), so there was already going to be brass in the system.
I guess I could always toss the brass ones in the plumbing drawer and get some plastic ones (now that I know were to find them).
AndrewH
02-04-2008, 12:48 PM
Here we go...
All the pieces laid out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/CO2/IMG_0399.jpg
All of the connectors with Teflon tape and screwed in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/CO2/IMG_0400.jpg
Everything glued up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/CO2/IMG_0405.jpg
And Daddy's little helper :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/fishy/CO2/IMG_0404.jpg
I did end up stopping by HD and found the 5/8 x 1/2 MPT 90* hose barbs :D. I'm also gonna try some quick connects for the CO2 and see how they work. If they don't end up working (meaning they leak CO2), I'll change 'em out to the brass connectors I bought.
The larger one on the left ended up being 23 1/4" total (including the barbs) length. The smaller one I simply cut down to fit under my other stand (about 3" shorter than the other one).
AndrewH
02-04-2008, 12:53 PM
Once I get my CO2 tank filled, I'll show them installed, hooked up, and working :D.
rolloffhill
02-04-2008, 12:53 PM
I'm gonna go with this one....http://rexgrigg.com/diy-reactor.htm
http://rexgrigg.com/7pc7.JPG
Just need to pick up the threaded barb fittings. Lowes didn't have them, gonna check TSC, they should have them...
AndrewH
02-04-2008, 12:59 PM
That's the base design I used, but saw a modification I liked were a guy used a 90* elbow on each end to make it shorter, and a Tee in the middle to connect the CO2. I simply changed the Tee to a Wye as I think it'll disolve the CO2 better and I used 90* hose barbs instead of 2" pipe elbows.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/DiabloCanine/CO2%20Reactor/Frank.jpg
(from the link in the first post of this thread)
The only problem with this design I don't like is the fact that you have to silicone in the CO2 line and hope it doesn't get eaten away by the CO2, and that it can handle the pressure inside the diffuser (which should be pretty low).
Have you bought the pieces to build it yet?
rolloffhill
02-04-2008, 01:23 PM
Yes bought them yesterday, just need to get the barbed fittings. Shouldn't need to silicone them on if you drill the right size hole for the tubing...:)
greeneyed
02-05-2008, 05:43 AM
Is this similar to the quick connect you are going to use?
http://images.grainger.com/images/products/4HN10.JPG
If so, I know the work great for high pressure applications. They should work for this you as well. Make sure after you push the hose in, to give it a good pull to lock it in good.
AndrewH
02-05-2008, 08:48 AM
Yes bought them yesterday, just need to get the barbed fittings. Shouldn't need to silicone them on if you drill the right size hole for the tubing...:)
I just don't think I trust something that's simply pushed into a hole to not leak CO2. Worst case scenario, the CO2 line comes out or breaks off from exposure to CO2, and you're pumping tank water onto the floor ;). Granted, if my CO2 line were to break off, I'd be pumping water onto the floor also, but I just feel more comfortable with a "dedicated" connect, but to each their own.
Definitely report back to let us know how this design works out and how easy it is to build.
Is this similar to the quick connect you are going to use?
http://images.grainger.com/images/products/4HN10.JPG
If so, I know the work great for high pressure applications. They should work for this you as well. Make sure after you push the hose in, to give it a good pull to lock it in good.
Yup, that's what I'm using (only mine're white).
The only thing I worry about is the small rubber/plastic washer inside getting eaten by the CO2. I guess time will tell.
BTW... all of my inlet water supplies to the tank use these connectsion with no problems so far ;)
AndrewH
02-12-2008, 05:19 PM
Yes bought them yesterday, just need to get the barbed fittings. Shouldn't need to silicone them on if you drill the right size hole for the tubing...:)
You ever get around to building your diffuser(s)?
rolloffhill
02-12-2008, 05:26 PM
I started to yesterday dry fitting, but when I went to glue them, my PVC glue was a big ball of dryness.....And of course I forgot to pick some up today on the way home...:twist:
I did find the threaded 3/4" fittings with barbs at TSC though. They only had the straight ones so I got a 3/4" street 90 there too....
AndrewH
02-12-2008, 05:28 PM
3/4" thread to 5/8" barb? sweet!
rolloffhill
02-12-2008, 05:43 PM
Yup, usually in the back of the store with the spray equipment. It isn't pvc, but the white plastic.
AndrewH
02-13-2008, 03:37 PM
Dang, I never thought to look anywhere other than the plumbing, thanks for the tip.
rolloffhill
02-15-2008, 03:20 PM
I just don't think I trust something that's simply pushed into a hole to not leak CO2. Worst case scenario, the CO2 line comes out or breaks off from exposure to CO2, and you're pumping tank water onto the floor ;). Granted, if my CO2 line were to break off, I'd be pumping water onto the floor also, but I just feel more comfortable with a "dedicated" connect, but to each their own.
Definitely report back to let us know how this design works out and how easy it is to build.
Yup, that's what I'm using (only mine're white).
The only thing I worry about is the small rubber/plastic washer inside getting eaten by the CO2. I guess time will tell.
BTW... all of my inlet water supplies to the tank use these connectsion with no problems so far ;)
The size hole that I drilled for the tubing I got, It took about 10 minutes and a bit of wire lube to get it in there. So it shouldn't just pop out.
You ever get around to building your diffuser(s)?
Yup and it is up and running as of last night...:D
AndrewH
02-15-2008, 03:47 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/Andrew_H/Smileys/itdidnthappen.gif
rolloffhill
02-15-2008, 03:53 PM
Camera charging now...:D
AndrewH
02-15-2008, 04:04 PM
I hate running outta battery for the cam!
(ty biggin' for all the extas!!! I always have one charging while one's in the cam)
biggin
02-15-2008, 04:08 PM
Too bad one of those is a real crappy battery. The other 2 should have pretty good life.
rolloffhill
02-19-2008, 09:37 PM
Sorry forgot about the pics...
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/rolloffhill/DIY/Picture283.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/rolloffhill/DIY/Picture285.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/rolloffhill/DIY/Picture288.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/rolloffhill/DIY/Picture290.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/rolloffhill/DIY/Picture291.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/rolloffhill/DIY/Picture293.jpg
AndrewH
02-20-2008, 05:08 PM
Very nice pictures.
:eek: are you using normal air line tubing?
What's your bps going at? What's your disolved CO2?
Do you simply have the CO2 silinoid on with the light timer?
rolloffhill
02-20-2008, 06:01 PM
No it's Clippard tubing, I got it from Rex so I am assuming its Co2 tubing
I think its about 2-3/second, don't have a drop checker yet so no idea
Yes just a standard light timer that goes off about 30-60 minutes before lights out. :)
AndrewH
02-26-2008, 02:20 PM
Have you noticed any change regarding the plant's growth since you added CO2?
rolloffhill
03-01-2008, 08:34 PM
No because I had the co2 up and running before I got the plants in there...
I forgot about these pics in the other camera..
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/rolloffhill/DIY/DSC03381.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/rolloffhill/DIY/DSC03382.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/rolloffhill/DIY/DSC03383.jpg
AndrewH
03-04-2008, 11:19 AM
Why the Tee on bottom instead of an Elbow? Just seems like one extra piece (the extra endcap).
rolloffhill
03-04-2008, 11:21 AM
I dunno :confuzeld: but it makes for a nice flat surface for mounting..;)
biggin
03-04-2008, 11:21 AM
Maybe because that is what he had laying around? That would be my guess.
ElijahTurtle
03-05-2008, 09:01 AM
I don't know if it's removable or not, but I think a Tee with a removable cap on the bottom is a great idea incase you ever need to open it up for any reason.
AndrewH
03-14-2008, 10:00 AM
That's true, but the Tee and cap in the picture were glued together (which is why I asked, seemed a removable cap would make sense like you said, but not a glued one = extra parts).
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